Monday, July 20, 2015

Ring in a Ring

 

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Here is my version of a ring in a ring.

I engraved the top and sides to make it more interesting visually.

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There is another ring in the outside ring.

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The inner ring is made out of a 2 mm x solid ring.

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The inside ring is filed into a 'U' inside shape.

It has a titanium ring that is set with diamonds and is riveted to the inside.

One rivet at the top and two at the bottom.

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The outer ring has to be pulled quite hard to open it.

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The outer ring has to be pulled quite hard to open it.

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Both on the hand.

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There are four small diamonds set in the titanium band.

In the center of the band is a gold rivet.

The next one I make the gold rivet will be designed to accommodate a coloured stone for sure.

The inner ring is experimental however.

I wanted to see if a 'U' shape would reflect the heat coloured blue titanium.

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Here is the 'U' profile of the inner ring.

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Check how the blue of the titanium floods the ring.

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A side shot.

This is most effective at a 90º visually.

From a sideways angle the blue disappears.

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A sideways angle.

Now there is no blue.

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The inner band was filed out of a solid piece of titanium strip.

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Still in the rough stages.

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After the holes are drilled it is fitted into the U and once everything checks out it is set with the diamonds and then blued in a small oven at about 650C.

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The cool thing is that because the titanium is below the top of the U sides the U protects it from scratches.

I made a full tutorial of this project .

Saturday, July 4, 2015

Making Titanium Ear Studs.

 

Recently I received an order for a pair of four claw ear studs made out of titanium.

I often get requests via the internet to make custom orders in titanium.

This ties in nicely with free a tutorial I wrote a couple of months back.

http://www.meevis.com/making-1-3mm-prongs-collets.htm

There are also more free and to buy tutorials here.

This is one where I make 3 mm collets but of course this can be scaled up to what ever collet is needed.

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I cut a piece off an off cut I had.

I didn’t have any round stock left,so I just knuckled down and made some.

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Put it in my lathe and turn it down.

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I turn it to the outer diameter and then I drill a 4 mm hole to the correct depth.

The depth would vary from stone type and size.

A 6.5 mm diamonds has an overall depth of about 4 mm.

So I make this one about 4.5 mm.

This sounds like a close tolerance but actually the stone will be set with the crown standing proud of the claw ends and so the working depth of the stone runs more like 3 mm.

Also the 4 mm drill is pointed so the cullet has extra space.

 

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These collets are for  6.7 mm stones ( about 1 ct. in diamond size) so once I reach the outer diameter I cut an about 17º angle inwards.

17º in the standard angle for most collets.

 

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Then I drill the inside more with a 5 mm drill.

Not all the way.

This is just to remove excess material for the cone burr.

 

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I ground the tip off a cone burr and then use it to ream the inside of the collet to 17º.

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Then I cut the cone with a 3/0 blade to act as a guide for the barrel frazer.

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I first start with a 1 mm barrel frazer and work myself up to a 3 mm one.

I go down to about 1 mm above the inside bottom of the collet.

 

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I leave the shaft thick and then finish the collet of using an oval needle file and thin sanding mandrels.

I also shape various rubber wheels to finish off the curves.

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Then I put it back in the lathe and make the pin thinner.

I use a fine barrette needle file while the lathe is spinning and very carefully ease the pin down to 0.9 mm.

A very patient and soft touch is needed.

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Until we arrive at the finished but unpolished collet.

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Now for the butterflies.

I roll out some titanium strip to about .0.3 mm and mark out and drill two holes.

Then I mark out two circles and two parallel lines and pierce it out using a 6/0 saw blade.

I remove the saw marks true it up and sand and polish everything now.

 

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Then I bend the arms in.

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When the arm is bent, it forms a natural concave profile which helps in guiding the pin through.

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Titanium is tricky to polish.

It works much like platinum, in that you can’t easily polish scratches out.

It has to be finished off to a high degree before polishing takes place.

luxor polish

I stole this picture off my tool tips page

http://www.meevis.com/jewelry-tool-tips.htm

I use this polish brand for everything.

I have thrown all my other polishes in a box and I don’t use them anymore.

 

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From the original block to finished, ready for setting.

Sunday, May 10, 2015

The Piston Ring and the Parrot

 

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I made a piston ring,

The crankshaft was quite tricky, I made it four times before I got it right.

I also made the ‘piston’ twice. I turned it out of titanium.

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Then I pierced out some titanium plate to give some strength to the silver and also just because I thought it would look cool.

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The I temporally riveted everything together and filed and sanded them down.

 

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Gauge.

 

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Here are all the parts just after spontaneous unscheduled separation.

 

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I inlayed some gold into the piston and set some diamonds and Hauyne into it.

This is a stone that is found in Germany and it’s very bright blue and soft, but since the piston is very protected it’s OK to put in a ring.

It’s a bitch to set, though—you just look at it a poof, it’s dustified.

 

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And I set a Sandawana emerald straight into the titanium on the top.

Also very easy to dustify.

 

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Finished

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Looks mean.

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When you turn the little cog, the piston moves back and forth.

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Just for fun

I doubt anyone will ever buy it.

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There have not been many days yet where we could go out cycling.

These are flowers under plastic.

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These were a couple of bro’s pushing a shopping trolley filled with beer for a party at the river.

You got to grab a good day when it comes.

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Anne also grabs a good thing when she can!

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There was this guy who I had seen around walking with an amazon on his shoulder and so when he walked past the shop I called him in

His name is Boris, a nice guy too and his parrot called Pepe.

Pepe REALLY liked our cage and slotted in so well, he didn’t actually want to leave.

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The other two were somewhat wary of this giant bird.

The little one stayed vas in the cage, not moving and inch, ha ha

Monday, March 30, 2015

Open Heart Ring Surgery

 

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A customer wanted this ring changed .

She didn’t like the ruby anymore.

 

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Open heart surgery.

I didn't actually know whether it would work, but I figured that if I totally screw up the ring, I can always make a new ruby ring.

It would have been actually better if I made the new ring from scratch, but she doesn’t want that.

It has to be the old ring or nothing.

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Gauge.

The things I do for the rent.

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I had to make a new base for the emerald tube.

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Then fit the tube in and solder it up.

Once it was all soldered in I soldered the inner ring in so that the emerald would sit at the correct height.

 

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And once all that was done I set the emerald.

This emerald cab weighs 8 carats and it’s a piece of mediocrity with green camouflage.

I absolutely dislike stones like this, not because it’s ugly, but because it is so delicate.

It’s riven internally with fractures and the slightest misstep during setting and POW, it becomes fish tank gravel.

Of course, as soon as that happens, the stones becomes a family heirloom worth millions and guess who is at the sharp end?

Anyway all's well that ends well and now the only potential hiccup on the horizon is if she actually likes it.

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I attract various animals to our shop.

Some ducks came walking past so Anne took a picture of me feeding them.

 

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And every day I feed the pigeons.

They come to the window and peck on it to let me know that they would like breakfast to be served.

So I put some seed out on the street.

This does not go down well with the local populace.

They don’t like birds.

Feathered rats and all that but who cares---I like birds.

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It’s the first Moto GP weekend.

We are prepared.