Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Emerald and Spessertite Ring


I finished this ring today. It's 14kt gold , but the strips where the spessertite garnets are set in are 18kt and the tube that holds the emerald is made out of 22kt gold.
My client is a regular visitor to the island and gave me, amongst other sentimental jewellery, the center stone, being a 3.57 carat emerald that has it's fair share of inclusions.
It is not badly cut and the girdle is not too thin, so I figure that if it survived being set into 14kt gold in it's previous ring, it will survive my setting it in a 22kt tube.
I have cut and set hundreds of emeralds and the more I set, the more cautious I become....
I trust large emeralds nothing.
I assume that any emerald is treated in some manner, from the rough dealer to the cutter to the end user.
So what I do is to minimise the risk .
I don't heat it up.
I don't put it in the ultasonic.
I clean it by hand.
I treat it like a baby.......

One can quickly remove all the colour from an emerald in the ultrasonic if you are unlucky.

If that happens, it is very difficult to explain to your client.

But this one in the picture looks ok and it's quite a nice stone. A little more yellow than the photo's colour, on my monitor.
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