Sunday, March 22, 2009

Gold and Titanium Ring, a Pendant and a Story.


Here are three pictures of a 18kt yellow gold and titanium ring I made, set with melee diamonds.
I first drill and file the center titanium part out of a 4mm piece of plate.
Then I file it into shape, drill the holes for the diamonds and pavé set them.
Setting stones pavé into titanium is actually very easy.
It is quite a forgiving metal, so the beads can be manipulated quite a lot before they snap. For instance, setting stones into nickle white gold is much more difficult.

After I have set the diamonds, I blue the center ring.
I have one chance to get this right.
That is, if I over heat it or screw up the colour evenness I remake the ring, because there is no ways I can sand everything down, what with the pavé setting.
I use my lowest flame setting I can get on my torch-- like a little itsy teeny flame.
This is because the thinner portions of the ring will overheat quickly and go past the colour band that I want.
This has happened many times in the past with other pieces, and causes the most unseemly language to be heard in my workshop.
Hot rings are also known to gain a high velocity instantly- and come to an abrupt stop against an immovable object, like the wall.
Luckily, this did not happen with this ring and it was finished with a measure of serenity.........

This is a commissioned 18kt gold pendant set with a .65ct diamond.
A very nice stone, pure and white, it was the remaining one of a set of earrings.
Lost on a beach, I believe.
It is very foolish to wear jewellery on a beach.
Or to swim with it in the sea.
I once had a customer in South Africa, Mrs L. who owned a flawless 5 carat colour D round diamond set in a solitare ring.
She brought in a few of her pieces for cleaning before she went on holiday, and after that was done, I inspected the jewellery.
The prongs on the diamond ring were very worn, and I told here that under no circumstances should she wear the ring until she came back and I could replace the collet.
Needless to say, she wore the ring on the beach, and lo and behold, when she looked down at her finger, the diamond was gone from the ring.
A lot of anguish ensued, but the beach was big, the diamond small and nothing was found.
As darkness fell, the family walked back to their bungalow, and as her son walked into the kitchen he noticed some beach tar stuck under his flip flop sandle.
And in it, there was the diamond.
Seriously lucky.
Most stories, however, don't end that way......
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