Wednesday, March 9, 2011

An Amethyst Ring and a New Pavé Setting Technique.


Start with the rough amethyst


After carving and polishing. Weighs 7.5 carats.



And then make a custom ordered ring. The wedding ring is actually white gold. I don’t know why it looks so yellow. Anyway you get the drift…… I really like doing this kind of work. Very difficult, very rewarding when it is finished.



Here is a view from the other side.


And from the top.

Bolivian Amethyst.


There was this looong argument on Ganoksin when a poster showed a giff animated picture of  how he does’ Royal pavé’, as he called it.

Well, one of the serial  argumentative keyboard goldsmiths immediately shot him down, saying it can’t be done and he doesn’t know what he is talking about etc, etc.

And then a verbal brawl ensued. Things got quite unpleasant.

I, in the mean time, was intrigued. So I started messing around to see how would one set stones in the manner that was described.

And after five or six attempts, figured it out.New-Three-Stone-Drillsed

All of the following pictures have been taken on the fly, so they not very good.

Anyway, the principle is that a spread of stones, say diamonds, are set with only one bead holding the three stones in the middle.

Of course, in a real job, ten or twenty or a hundred stones would be set, but for my purposes, three were enough.

This is more difficult that it looks because if one simply sets the stones in the normal method, the little tri-angle in the picture does not have enough metal to be spread over three stones with one bead.New-Three-Stone-Raised

To get more metal to the center, I used a flat graver (0.7mm wide) to raise three little pillars towards the middle of the three stones.New-Three-Stone-3

Then, before I beaded the center I raised a bead on the opposite side of the stone. This is just a test piece, so I only did one bead, just to hold the stone in place, otherwise if one does the middle first, the stones tend to sink in the middle.


And here is the finished bead holding the three stones down. Nice and elegant if more stone are added.

But definitely for the fainthearted, because one slip and the piece would most likely be ruined.

It always amazes me that on Orchid these keyboard goldsmiths will argue and bleat for days, instead of just sitting down at the bench, trying it out and seeing what happens.

I now have increased my knowledge and added another skill to my pavé  skill set.



Ol Joe Gumbs on the island.

In contact , in tune and wired up.

There’s another cell phone on the other side of his head.

I wonder how he presses the ‘accept call’ button.

A slap on the ear, perhaps?

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