Sunday, December 9, 2012

Sapphire and Diamond Pendant.


This customer doesn’t know exactly what she wants, but she does kn0w what she doesn’t like.

I start with making  a wax shape as to was my customers description. I made two of them actually, until she decided this was what she wanted, shape wise.


Then I spray it with gold spray paint. Makes it more realistic for the customer.

As it was, the corners had to be softer in the final model.


Then I cut out shapes of the tri angles in cardboard until I had the mean average shape. There are actually only two tri angles that make up the whole piece.


Once I had them down, I rolled out some 18karat gold and drew and pierced the shapes out,



I filed them a bit  and  played around, setting the cut out shapes until they all matched. There is actually a small ball of soft wax in the center, so the shapes can be adjusted.


Here I was setting up the copper surround that’s going to hold the plaster-- and I bumped the pyramid and then there were gaps.

Set up again, dodo.


Dental plaster cast.


Once the plaster is hard, I grind most away and then I can take out the gold shapes and clean them and then put then back to solder/tack then on.

I only tack the outer tips and then solder each joint without the plaster.



Here is the piece after soldering and sanding.


Then the side are soldered on and trimmed down.


Then I made a bezel and six claws for the sapphire and soldered it into a pre filed oval hole.


The back plate. I had to do this three times over before I was sort of happy.


Here I am propping up the awl which has two .35ct diamonds.

Technically, there is nothing overly difficult making a piece like this.

A third year could do it quite easily.

And the setting is just that—setting. Nothing fancy, just a bucket load of concentration.

The rough drilling has been done, all slightly under sized at this point.




Second day.


Pre finish.

All that has to be done is the awl.

The awl is going to be quite complicated, because it has to have a dedicated lock that locks it in the center of the necklace it will be worn on.

As it is , this awl was later rejected and I made a new one with 8 pave set diamonds.

This one was also rejected and so I made the third one, which I think I will have to do over as well.

( She, like all women, is allowed to change her mind as often as she likes--- ha ha)


And, when a customer decides to change things, you, as the piper, play the tune.


Another spontaneous decision was to set diamonds in the side.

Sigh, yes ma'am.

Problem was that I didn’t really design the sides for diamonds to be set in there. So the metal was quite thin for setting, (0.6mm)  which made it a bit tricky, because if I drilled to big, the pendant would have to be made over.

There was no space for a mistake.

Luckily, everything worked out.


Signed sealed and delivered to my customer.

109 diamonds weighing 9.34 carats.

The center stone a 20.3 carat sapphire.

Total weight, 23.3 grams of 18 karat gold.

Post a Comment