Sunday, December 9, 2012

Sapphire and Diamond Pendant.

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This customer doesn’t know exactly what she wants, but she does kn0w what she doesn’t like.

I start with making  a wax shape as to was my customers description. I made two of them actually, until she decided this was what she wanted, shape wise.

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Then I spray it with gold spray paint. Makes it more realistic for the customer.

As it was, the corners had to be softer in the final model.

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Then I cut out shapes of the tri angles in cardboard until I had the mean average shape. There are actually only two tri angles that make up the whole piece.

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Once I had them down, I rolled out some 18karat gold and drew and pierced the shapes out,

 

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I filed them a bit  and  played around, setting the cut out shapes until they all matched. There is actually a small ball of soft wax in the center, so the shapes can be adjusted.

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Here I was setting up the copper surround that’s going to hold the plaster-- and I bumped the pyramid and then there were gaps.

Set up again, dodo.

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Dental plaster cast.

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Once the plaster is hard, I grind most away and then I can take out the gold shapes and clean them and then put then back to solder/tack then on.

I only tack the outer tips and then solder each joint without the plaster.

 

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Here is the piece after soldering and sanding.

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Then the side are soldered on and trimmed down.

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Then I made a bezel and six claws for the sapphire and soldered it into a pre filed oval hole.

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The back plate. I had to do this three times over before I was sort of happy.

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Here I am propping up the awl which has two .35ct diamonds.

Technically, there is nothing overly difficult making a piece like this.

A third year could do it quite easily.

And the setting is just that—setting. Nothing fancy, just a bucket load of concentration.

The rough drilling has been done, all slightly under sized at this point.

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Setting.

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Second day.

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Pre finish.

All that has to be done is the awl.

The awl is going to be quite complicated, because it has to have a dedicated lock that locks it in the center of the necklace it will be worn on.

As it is , this awl was later rejected and I made a new one with 8 pave set diamonds.

This one was also rejected and so I made the third one, which I think I will have to do over as well.

( She, like all women, is allowed to change her mind as often as she likes--- ha ha)

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And, when a customer decides to change things, you, as the piper, play the tune.

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Another spontaneous decision was to set diamonds in the side.

Sigh, yes ma'am.

Problem was that I didn’t really design the sides for diamonds to be set in there. So the metal was quite thin for setting, (0.6mm)  which made it a bit tricky, because if I drilled to big, the pendant would have to be made over.

There was no space for a mistake.

Luckily, everything worked out.

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Signed sealed and delivered to my customer.

109 diamonds weighing 9.34 carats.

The center stone a 20.3 carat sapphire.

Total weight, 23.3 grams of 18 karat gold.

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